Most days the freshest, flakiest, most diaphanous Trinidadian roti in the city must be consumed al trunko on the 2500 block of South Wabash with your blinkers on (it’s the only spot for roti, in fact). That’s where Dawn Lewis operates D’s Roti & Trini Cuisine out of a tiny ghost kitchen for carryout and delivery only. If you can’t risk a parking ticket, her roti are still superlative a mile and change over at 31st Street Beach, but each precious second they spend in their carryout container denies you their ideal made-to-order perfection.
That all changes this July 11 when Lewis takes over the kitchen at the Kedzie Inn for Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up series in Irving Park. Lewis has put together a menu that begs to be enjoyed on the spot, headlined by her marvelous, handmade buss up shut flatbreads with curry chicken or vegan curry potato. Pholourie, fluffy deep-fried fritters with hot pepper, tamarind, and herbal culantro-based shado benny sauces, are peerless hot from the fryer, particularly with sides of spicy pineapple chow and curried coconut sweet corn.
As always there will be limited availability for walk-in orders, but why taunt the gods of supply and demand when Lewis is taking pre-orders right now, via email: dsrotichicago@dsroti.com. She’s also bringing along her house-made sorrel (spiced hibiscus tea) and/or mauby, the bitter, restorative cold infusion made from the bark of the carob tree for Jon Pokorny to mix up some magic behind the bar. It all starts at 5 PM.
Meanwhile, check out the updated Monday Night Foodball schedule below. The Melanin Martha returns on September 12.
7/18: Mazesoba from Mike “Ramen Lord” Satinover
7/25: Asian stoner snacks from SuperHai
8/1: Keralan food from Thommy Padanilam of Thommy’s Toddy Shop
8/8: Indonesian home cooking with Waroeng and friends
8/15: Dylan Maysick of Diaspora Dinners
8/22: Vargo Brother Ferments
8/29: The triumphant return of Funeral Potatoes
9/5: Labor Day break
9/12: The Melanin Martha returns
9/19: Global Asian barbecue with Umamicue and friends
