Since my stay at the S was so brief, the quick brain poke in a room off the lobby was $49, but guests staying for four nights or more do not have to pay to be tested. The room, by the way, was simply lovely: a head-on sunset view. I spent much of my time sitting on the balcony, staring. Or just walking on the beach, thinking, wondering, searching for some renewed personal groove. You know, the reasons receptive people have always wanted to go to Jamaica.